Do I need a hot-swap keyboard to change switches?

Yes, to change switches without soldering. Hot-swap PCBs use sockets so you can pull and replace switches by hand. If your keyboard is soldered, you'll need desoldering equipment and some practice. Check the keyboard's spec sheet — if it doesn't say hot-swap, treat it as soldered.

Are aftermarket keycaps compatible with my keyboard?

Most fit, because the majority of mechanical keyboards use Cherry MX-style (+) stems. The thing to check is your layout: compact 65% and 75% boards often need a smaller spacebar and non-standard bottom-row sizes (1.25u/1.5u), so confirm the keycap set includes those keys.

What's the difference between tactile and linear switches?

Linear switches move smoothly from top to bottom with no bump, which many gamers prefer. Tactile switches have a noticeable bump at the point the key registers, which a lot of people like for typing. Clicky switches add an audible click. Choice comes down to feel and how much noise you want.

Are PBT keycaps better than ABS?

PBT resists the greasy shine that ABS keycaps develop over time and tends to feel more textured. For long-lasting legends, choose dye-sublimated or double-shot keycaps over pad-printed ones. That said, good double-shot ABS sets hold up well too — PBT is just the more durable default.

Why is my spacebar or Enter key rattly?

That rattle comes from the stabilisers under your longer keys, not the switches. Screw-in stabilisers are steadier than clip-in ones, and lightly lubing them plus a "band-aid" mod under the PCB removes most of the noise. It's one of the cheapest upgrades for a better-sounding board.

What USB cable does a mechanical keyboard use?

Most modern keyboards use a detachable USB-C cable on the board end and USB-A or USB-C at the PC. A braided 1–2m cable is a good balance of reach and tidiness, and a right-angle connector helps if your keyboard sits close to a wall or monitor stand.

Does a wrist rest actually help?

It can, by keeping your wrists more neutral during long typing or gaming sessions, which reduces strain. Match the height to your keyboard — taller mechanical boards pair well with a raised wrist rest. It's a comfort upgrade, not a performance one, so choose by feel.

How fast is delivery for keyboard accessories in South Africa?

Evetech ships nationwide via local couriers, with metros like Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban typically quickest and outlying areas taking a little longer. Check the live delivery estimate at checkout for your area, and order in-stock items together to ship as one parcel.

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Keyboard Accessories

Keyboard Accessories & Upgrades ⌨️

Keyboard accessories let you change how your mechanical keyboard feels, sounds and looks without buying a new board. The core upgrades are keycaps (the part you touch), switches (the feel under each key), stabilisers (for the longer keys like spacebar and Enter), and detachable USB-C cables — plus wrist rests for comfort during long sessions.

Start with what you want to change. Swap keycaps to alter the profile, legends and colour; change switches to go lighter, heavier, tactile or linear; lube and clip stabilisers to kill rattle on big keys. Switch swaps without soldering need a hot-swap keyboard, so check your board before buying loose switches.

Evetech stocks keycap sets, switches, stabilisers, cables and wrist rests with local warranty and fast nationwide delivery. Match the part to your keyboard's layout and switch type below, and pair a fresh keycap set with the right switches for the feel you're after.

How to Choose Keyboard Accessories

Compatibility is everything with keyboard parts. Before you buy, know three things about your board: the switch stem type (most are Cherry MX-style +), whether the PCB is hot-swap or soldered, and the layout (full-size, TKL, 75%, 65%) since that decides which keycap and bottom-row sizes you need. The guide below covers the decisions that matter most.

Most mechanical keyboards use Cherry MX-style (+) stems, which fit the majority of aftermarket keycap sets, including Gateron and Kailh switches. The catch is layout: 65% and 75% boards often need non-standard bottom-row sizes (1.25u or 1.5u keys) and a smaller spacebar, so check the set lists those sizes before buying.

A hot-swap keyboard has sockets that let you pull and replace switches by hand, no soldering needed — ideal if you want to experiment with feel. A soldered board needs desoldering tools and skill to change switches. Check your keyboard's spec sheet; if it doesn't say hot-swap, assume it's soldered.

Linear switches (often "Red") are smooth top to bottom and popular for gaming. Tactile switches (often "Brown") give a bump at the actuation point that many prefer for typing. Clicky switches add an audible click on top of the bump. Actuation force and travel are personal — try a switch tester if you're unsure.

Stabilisers sit under your longer keys (spacebar, Enter, Shift, Backspace) and are the main source of rattle on an otherwise good keyboard. Screw-in stabilisers are more stable than clip-in ones, and a light lube plus the "band-aid" mod removes most of the rattle for a cleaner, more uniform sound.

PBT keycaps resist the shine that develops on ABS over time and generally feel more textured. For legends that last, look for dye-sublimation or double-shot printing rather than pad-printed legends, which wear off. ABS sets can still be excellent — double-shot ABS keeps its legends — but for durability PBT is the safer default.