Linear switches move straight down with no bump, so they feel smooth and quiet, which suits fast-paced gaming. Tactile switches have a noticeable bump at the actuation point that helps typing accuracy. Clicky switches add that bump plus an audible click. Pick linear for speed, tactile for feel, or clicky if you like the sound.

Hall-effect switches sense key movement magnetically instead of through metal contacts, so they are analog and effectively linear in feel. That lets you set a custom actuation point and use rapid trigger, where a key resets the instant you lift it - an edge in competitive shooters. They also last longer because nothing physically touches to register a press. Your keyboard must be built for magnetic switches; they do not fit standard MX sockets.

Hot-swap keyboards have sockets that let you pull and replace switches by hand, with no soldering iron needed. Soldered boards fix the switches to the PCB permanently. Check whether the socket takes 3-pin (plate-mount) or 5-pin (PCB-mount) switches; 5-pin switches can be clipped down to fit 3-pin sockets. If your board is not hot-swap, swapping switches means desoldering.

Actuation force is how hard you press before a key registers, measured in grams. Lighter switches around 45g are easy to press quickly and suit gaming and long typing sessions. Heavier switches from about 60g up resist accidental presses and feel more deliberate. If you bottom out hard or make frequent typos, a heavier switch can help.

Lubing reduces friction and scratchiness for a smoother, quieter keystroke, most noticeably on linear switches. Many switches now ship factory-lubed. Hand-lubing gives the best result but takes time and a switch opener. If that is not for you, look for pre-lubed switches or a hot-swap board so you can experiment easily.